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Expat Food in Nigeria

One of the things I like about our new school is that instead of a cafeteria we have a “food court.” Since classes started this week I’ve been getting my lunch from the Indian food stand. They sell saffron rice, somozas, paratha rolls, and chicken lollipops. Yesterday lunch was fried rice and chicken suya, a popular Nigeria streetfood, and boy was it spicy. For a change I decided to have roast chicken and cheese on panini sandwich, and it was yummy and went well with the fresh fruits that our cook packed for me.

Now our cook is terrific, too. We only eat lunch at the cafeteria cause we want to observe the students. But after school we can’t wait to check what the cook has prepared for dinner. We certainly enjoyed her chili, baked fish, beef suya, and chicken curry. And she’s not bad with baked goodies either. My personal favorite are the tortilla that she cuts and bakes into chips with lots of garlic. I didn’t even need to dip these in the salsa sauce she also prepares. Today she had cinnamon rolls waiting for us when we got home.

I cn’t wait to see what else she’d make. It seems we can continue to enjoy the same dishes and some new ones here in Lagos. She always has a fresh bowl of salad and fruits in the fridge. The fruits here are actually sweet. James ate two bananas one night, when he used to only take a nibble or two. He also enjoys sucking and chewing pineapple bits. I love green apples but usually don’t have much after Brian picks the fruit bowl first. It’s that good.

We finally had a chance to check out the commisary yesterday, and it was disappointingly smaller and nt as well stocked as the one in Islamabad. Of course the one in Lagos is for consulate personnel only, and the one in Islamabad is part of the embassy compound. So I think we’ll be spending most of our grocery money on the local groceries, supermarkets, and wet markets. Fortunately there seems to be several to choose from, and they don’t necessarily carry the same brands. Our favorite is actually a 5-minute walk from our flats, the “Try N’ Carry” mini-mart. It reminds us of Harold’s in Islamabad, and their prices are more reasonable. So we’re not going to worry too much if I decide to cook and need some spices or rice.

Well, we survived our first week in Lagos, Nigeria and never came close to re-packing our bags screaming to be taken to the airport. That’s the advantage of having little or no expectations about this place. After reading and hearing unflattering comments and negative reviews about the second biggest city in Africa (in terms of population), we were pleasantly surprised that it is not as bad or as expensive as we were told. Of course we live on campus in Victoria Island, and have only seen parts of the mainland, Lekki and Ikoyi.

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1004 Estates and Civic Building

We do miss Islamabad, it is a lot prettier with the hills, trees, and flowers plus wide streets and minimal traffic. But I was thrilled to walk in a couple of malls and supermarkets here nonetheless. The shelves carry some familiar brands and labels, such as Dove, Pampers, and Colgate. But milk, rice, and olive oil are incredibly expensive, while pasta, beer, and wine are surprisingly cheap. The toys are also pricey, like a box of Matchbox cars that cost $5 in Pakistan and $10 in the US is selling for $30 here.

“Do you know how far China is from here,” my husband teased me.

The people seem friendly. At least the local staff in school and at the US Consulate are ready to greet you. But the sales ladies are surly. They look bored but get annoyed when you ask them a question. At least everyone speaks English and all signs are in English.

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Most of the locals look colorful in clothes with bold prints. I enjoy watching those with elaborate headdresses and those who wear their babies around their waist. And they look so graceful when they carry all kinds of things, like a jumbo sack of water bottles or basket of produce, perfectly balanced on their heads. The men are not to be outdone, because they also love to dress up, some of them in cotton with lace trimmings.

We like our place, too. When we first arrived it felt like we were still in the US, because the furnishings are very modern and Western. We even have an AC in the kitchen. (The intermittent brownouts do remind us we live in a developing country.) After adding the rugs we brought from Pakistan, some wall decorations and sarongs from Thailand, and our framed photos it now feels very comfortable. Even James likes to spend more time in his room today after we spread his toys and added two colorful batik artwork left by the previous music teacher.

The adjustment period has been the most difficult aspect of our arrival. We’re always tired, sleepy, and feeling a lot of stress. There is so much to do and a lot of information to digest, with classes starting in two days. We had to get acquainted with the newly-hired cook/steward, nanny, and driver; negotiating and discussing their work schedule, duties, and salaries after being in their country for only a few days. Even if everyone speaks English different terms are used sometimes. We had to learn a whole new set of procedures for preparing lesson plans and new software for attendance and grading. Where is the printing room? Where can we get supplies?

And we not only had to adjust to our Mac laptops (damn, where’s the taskbar for the minimized windows?), but also had to get our toddler used to a different sleeping schedule, new nanny, new environment, and often had to leave him screaming and crying when we go to work. He is a smart kid. As soon as I pick up my bag or the nanny walks in he starts crying and would cling to me. I hope things will improve when he starts daycare/playgroup this Monday. It’s only 5 minutes from school, and he’ll be with some familiar faces, two other toddlers of our colleagues everyday for half a day.

James' Nursery School

James' Nursery School

While I worry about our son’s well-being I have relaxed a bit about malaria. There are not as many mosquitoes here compared to Islamabad or the Philippines. And we live in a compound with other families, so James gets to play with other teachers’ kids, whose ages range from 18 months to maybe 14 or 15. It’s like having so many cousins to play with. Right outside our building is the pool, playground, and soccer field. From where I sit, James is in a good place. As long as he’s happy and safe, that’s what matters.

Two Useful Travel Tips

I am grateful to two well-traveled teachers who gave me the most useful advice for our impending move to Nigeria.

Marsha told me all about vacuum bags, and we found out yesterday that the large and jumbo sizes re perfect for carpets. We like it that they take up less space, and are protected from dusts, bugs, and dirt. The bags are also waterproof and reusable.

We’re only traveling with a suitcase of clothes for each member of the family (of three), but have teaching resources, home decorations, and baby products in 4-5 storage bins. Our friend Joy told us to drill a couple of holes and secure the lids with zip ties. As an added measure she tapes a couple of extra ties with a note to airport security to use these if they open to inspect the box. This method for securing baggage is better than duct tape, which is hard to remove and gets yucky.

We’re almost done packing, again. Eight have been filled up to 50 lbs or less, and four more to go.
We need to inform Lufthansa through our travel agent how much excess baggage space we are reserving. They charge $250 per excess baggage. To date Brian counted 12: 3 suitcases, 7 storage bins, a box containing toddler car seat, and a bag of rugs. We hope there won’t be more, but we still have a bin of James’ toys, clothes in the laundry, and toilettries we won’t pack until the day of departure.
Our blood pressure is back to normal again after we were informed the school will reimburse $800 worth of malaria medications. This is the problem when switching employers, even if the insurance company (TIECare) is the same. Our plan with our previous school only covers a discount, while the new one is on co-pay terms. But we bought the meds yesterday, and our new insurance plan does not take effect until Aug. 1.

We would have bought these meds in Thailand or Philippines, except these are not available. It’s ironic that travel advisories continue to warn against malaria, even though my family of doctors don’t know where they’re sold.

Goodbye Latte

I need to say goodbye to my cat Latte, so if you don’t care for cats or understand why some people are crazy about their pets, you can stop reading now :)

Our coffee cats came to our lives when Mama Kitty went up the elevator with us to our 15th floor apartment in Thana City, Thailand. She followed us inside and we fed her with a can of tuna. Soon enough this became a habit, with her waiting by the elevator. After a few weeks she decided to stay in the apartment “for good.” We realized then that she was pregnant.

The kitties were born on my mother’s birthday, Dec. 19, and the day before our departure for a winter holiday in the Philippines. Brian was so excited he kept peeking in the box to count how many kittens have come out. There were four: three boys and a girl. Based on their color we named them Cream, Mocha, Latte, and Cappuccino.

Cream Mocha

Latte Cappuccino

They were uniquely different not only in appearance, but also in personality. Cream was clearly the alpha male. He was the first to venture out of the box, the first to do everything while others followed his example. Mocha – who was a spitting image of his mother — was his partner in crime. Whenever things got knocked down it was because the two have been chasing each other. The two were daredevils. Latte was like his father it seems only in appearances – his father was a “skirt-chaser” and bore many scars from beating his rivals.  Latte, on the other hand, was a cat of leisure, neither a lover nor a fighter. But he played with his brothers nonetheless. The three boys picked on their little sister, who seemed to be the runt of the litter. But Cappuccino learned to fight back, or simply maintain her distance to avoid these bullies.

Once they were weaned Mama Kitty didn’t want to have anything to do with them. We became their parents. And we became a family. Brian doted on them. He brought them to the vet for all their shots, and gave them their vitamins or medicines. Every afternoon he’d take them down to a grassy area so they can play and explore. I knew then he’d made a wonderful caring father. The cats all adored him, and were always fighting to get on his lap.

When it was time to leave Thailand we couldn’t bear to separate them so we brought them with us to Pakistan in 2005. At first we were happy that they finally have a big yard to explore. Our two-story house in Islamabad seemed perfect for four active and playful kitties.

But with this new-found freedom also came more risks and danger. Someone or something hit Mocha and broke his jaw. Luckily the vet was able to wire them back and Mocha was fine for a while. Then Cream got sick and paralyzed the following year. After we put him to sleep things changed, but not for the better. Mocha and Latte began to squabble. Mocha started spraying on every piece of furniture and spot around the house. Cappuccino preferred Mocha over Latte, so he became alienated. Latte started digging his claws in the furniture. He also stopped grooming himself.

When Mocha was poisoned in 2007 we were left with two cats who couldn’t get along or stand each other. Latte displayed a mean streak borne out of jealousy towards Cappuccino. When James was born later than year Latte became an outcast. He was no longer allowed inside the house. He spent his days hanging around the yard, under the shade. Sometimes he would lie outside my window. But he always stood up to greet us when we came home or when James went outside to play. Latte was jealous of James at first but eventually let James pull his tail. Yesterday he let James playfully sit on his belly.

star wars kilim rug

Poor Latte. He knew he was special and different, and not just because he had blue eyes and the elegant looks of a pure-bred Siamese. Although he was not as active or adventurous as the others he was better in many other ways. He had their strengths: he had Cream’s lightning reflex, Mocha’s brute strength, and Cappuccino’s graceful balance. He always came out on top whenever they wrestled. When a bird flew in our apartment he caught it by jumping straight up. He became our carpet expert – he reacted to wool like it was catnip, and would roll around a wool rug or carpet. Like most Siamese he was vain, prissy, and picky. He seemed to think he was special. He stayed indoors most of the time, as if afraid to soil his fur.  Every time the other cats huddled together he would groom them as well.

He was affectionate and sensitive. Every time we take out the suitcases for a trip he would lie inside, as if he wanted to come, too. Whenever we came back he refused to be touched, to show his displeasure at being left behind. Are cats really that aware and intelligent? I once told him that he was a decorative cat, something meant to be admired. The next day he brought me a mouse, signifying he was more than a pretty face.

He claimed me, and would lie next to me in the living room during the day and the bedroom at night. I had a special song for every cat, and I sang Latte’s song every time we cuddled together — “I love my Latte yes I do …” When James was born I began to sing that song to him, replacing Latte’s name with James’. I sang that song to Latte the day before he died, after I scooped him in my arms and told him how much I love him and how much I’m going to miss him.

A week from today we would have turned him over to a new owner, a vet, who will take him and Cappuccino to a big house in Lahore.

don't go

Poor Latte. Of all the cats, you craved attention most. You were always meowing and demanding to be fed, to have your coat brushed, to be petted, to be cuddled.  I prayed that we would find an owner for you who will spoil you again. We wanted a new home for you, where you would be the center of attention, and not have to compete with other pets or babies. Because you were right, you were special and you deserved better. I thought our prayers have been answered.

I’ll never understand why you crossed the street that night when the lights were out. I’m afraid to imagine that you knew we were leaving you behind for good, and that you chose to leave than live with strangers. I can only hope that as I cradled you in my arms — body still warm but eyes glazed and heartbeat getting fainter — that you heard me say goodbye even though I didn’t want you to leave that way. You really deserved better.

The bad news is it’s going to be 106 degrees F on Wednesday. It was my husband who noticed it first. I usually have My Yahoo as one of my default homepage. This way I only need to glance if there’s new mail and preview the first few lines. I also have the 3-day weather forecast for Islamabad, Lagos, Chelan, Cebu, and Bangkok on it. Brian noted that it was accurate when it predicted rain and thunderstorm, a couple of weeks ago. He didn’t believe me at that time, because it was so hot and clear. But we did get the storm later in the evening. So it’s almost comforting to know that Lagos’ temperature has been constantly lower and even more closely similar to Bangkok and Cebu. Of course it’s probably as humid, too. This is why we packed most of our winter clothes to go to Chelan, Washington.

weather

I finally finished correcting and updating the second edition of our first coffee table book, “Our Life & Adventures in Pakistan.” The software I used is Booksmart by Blurb.com. The first edition only had two printed copies, but it served more as draft and sample copy. I was impressed by the professional quality of the printing and binding, and so now I can proudly order additional copies for my family.

Maybe I should also order a paperback version to carry around wherever we travel. We’re tired of explaining to people why we live in Pakistan since 2005. Now they can see our answer in these beautiful pictures of our home, school, Islamabad, and parts of the country that we visited. This is the perfect souvenir for our son who was born here in 2007.

Finding Travel Deals

I won’t call myself a smart shopper, because I often give in to impulse and bargains when confronted with an array of goods. When it comes to online shopping, however, I read reviews and compare prices. Usually I spend days and visit the same sites often before making a decision.

Tripadvisor is one of my favorite references for hotel reviews. Sometimes I would book rooms through Agoda or Sawadee.com, and have been using both on and off alternately for over five years. What I like about Agoda is we could earn points that we can later use to get discounts. But they don’t always give the lowest rates for that same reason. For example, I find that it’s better to book directly with the website(s) of Novotel because they offer different rates with flexible terms, e.g. no cancellation, no changes, etc. But Agoda has something other online booking sites don’t, which is the 24/7 Customer Support. I’ve used this service on a few occasions, and most of the agents I chatted with have been very helpful when I wanted a change in reservation dates or choice of room.

The reason I used and recommended Sawadee.com when we lived in Thailand was because every hotel comes with a printable map with directions in Thai for taxi drivers. The site itself is a very comprehensive guide to Thailand, with maps and all. It’s a user friendly site with simple layout and intuitive links. Tripadvisor is cluttered compared to this site.

I never had problems with this site until our last trip to Krabi for New Year. We tried and tried to book our favorite resort as early as September, and finally had to settle for the second worst one — according to reviews anyway. When the protesters began picketing and took over the Bangkok airports I tried again if a vacancy came up. Sawadee informed me our favorite resort was still fully booked. I e-mailed the resort and was told yes, they have rooms available. Then I found out from another site that Sawadee does not refund when you cancel. They also wanted to charge us for one night at the resort we previously booked. Fine, we’ll spend one night at that resort, we said. But our favorite resort was cheaper, so Sawadee told us they’re keeping the difference as service fee. So now I’m just going to use the info on their site but not book through them anymore.

The lesson is to always check the hotel or airline website, too. Sometimes discounts and special deals are posted there first, and sometimes there only.

Khattak Dance

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Here’s the video of the famous sword dance by the Khattak tribesmen of Pashtuns from northern Pakistan and Afghanistan. The first time I saw them perform was at the Lok Virsa festival of folk art and culture two years ago, and I was busy taking pictures then to appreciate the energy and stunts of this military dance. So I felt fortunate that they performed at our school during the Pakistan Day celebration. My friend Shamsa said that the first time she saw them perform many years ago their kameez (tops) were longer, and the only red thing in their outfits were their sashes plus the handkerchiefs they were holding. She said that their hair were also of the same length, for they are traditionally soldiers or warriors.

As you can see here the dance is also a demonstration of physical prowess and warrior skills. The drum tempo, which is fast to begin with, gets faster as the dancing gets more complicated.

Reference: http://dailymailnews.com/200704/15/dmarticlepage.html

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